Numerous documentaries on the tie and its origins call the Trajan’s Column in Rome an example of the representation and development of the first precursors of this neck jewelry. But what the Roman legionaries wore around the neck at the beginning of the second, post-Christian century only remotely reminds us of today’s tie. At best, a tie is simply a piece of cloth wrapped around your neck. The real forerunners of the tie are the scarves that have become part of the men’s clothing since the middle of the 17th century. Back then, a lace tie was a sign of extraordinary, exorbitant wealth. Even the most expensive hand-made tie of our day is cheap compared to the top tie worn by the early English Royal Family
The Striped Tie
Anyone who wears a tie with the colors of a regiment – a college, a school, a fraternity or a club – usually wants to express that he belongs to the institution and especially to the best society. That’s the way it is in England, the cradle of the striped tie. Men often buy such ties according to stylistic or aesthetic criteria, and there is nothing wrong with that.
It only becomes embarrassing when a German meets an English business associate and accidentally wears the color of a renowned rowing club, in which he is of course not a member – in contrast to his English counterpart. The likelihood of getting stuck in this way is comparatively high in England, as there is an incalculable number of “talking” color combinations. That’s why the main ones should be known.
The Hermes Tie
The Hermes tie belongs to a small number of exclusive accessories that are considered to be a symbol of good taste all over the world. There are certain ties that prove an even more refined sense of style, and of course, there are much more expensive and rare ties. But no other tie is as superior to criticism, fashion, zeitgeist, and taste as the Hermes tie.
No matter where the business trip goes, if there are a couple of Hermes ties, and they are cleverly combined with a shirt and suit, there’s never a risk of being dressed the wrong way. It’s hard to say what’s so special about the Hermes tie.
Perhaps the unmistakable style, but perhaps also the enormous power of the brand name Hermes, which has been synonymous with luxury and elegance for decades.
The Marinella Tie
What did the great statesmen Michael Gorbachev, George Bush, Francois Mitterrand, Oscar Lulgi Scalfaro and Helmut Kohl have in common? They all have shaped the political landscape of their home countries? True. But that’s too obvious. Let’s look at their taste in tie clips – the magnificent Marinella tie
Today, men from all over the world are supplied with the finest ties on request, so the buyer can choose a dozen neckties matching the new sports jacket and have them cut to exactly the length and width that meet their own requirements. Also, the thickness of the feed and, as a result, that of the knot can be accurately determined. The customer really has control over each of the key details of a tie. Anyone who thinks that such a shop does not justify the opportunity costs is wrong. And that’s the beauty of the Marinella tie – Handmade, fully custom unparalleled quality of the fabric, with over 3500 different patterns to choose from.
The Business Tie
The classic business tie patterns are anything but original. But they shouldn’t be. Only on the smallest details may our counterpart make out, whether it is an average tie or one of the absolute top class. Understatement really works only when the highest quality is hidden behind the greatest inconspicuousness, such as the ties of the Neapolitan Marinella or the products of Hermes.
Anyone who has read anywhere that a certain tailor makes the best ties in the world, which can also be made to measure, may be disappointed, perhaps because… How simple are the designs of the house? But just in the simplicity of this tie is its size. Less is more, especially in the business tie.
The bow is a close relative of the tie, but in contrast to the tie, can be seen more clearly in the loop her forerunner, the scarf. Until the 19th century, the men’s necklaces were made of square cloths that they folded over the diagonal and then knotted or looped in a variety of ways. The smaller and narrower these scarves became, the more they resembled our today’s known bow. Since the 19th century, its shape has hardly changed. However, over time, the loop has lost its status as an equal alternative to other tie forms (such as the long-binder or plastron) and has evolved into an exotic niche product.
The classic bow tie is particularly elegant when worn with a festive tuxedo. In fact, just like the Pfeiferauchen or the full beard, the loop of the bow is one of the few things every man tries for himself and then usually gives up. Some fall in love with it and then wear it almost exclusively, but that’s the case with fewer and fewer men. It may be because the bow always has something comical in it, whether the shirt-breast without a tie is perceived as a bit too naked, or that it does not look like a grind today.
In any case, loops have become so rare today that an existing loop inevitably arouses the attention of fellow men and the assembled society. In fact, your first day will be extensively commented with a bow, a situation the shy and rather reserved divine. Nevertheless, the loop has a lot of its own. On one hand, it can only be smeared with the greatest art, and on the other hand, it is the only alternative for all gentlemen who do not want to wear a tie but still want to be dressed correctly.
The Tie Scarf
The tie scarf does not fare justice. In fact, it’s a great way to add a touch of formality and elegance to a casual weekend look that is occasionally required between Friday night and Sunday night. A simple outfit from Tattersall check shirt, some jeans, a bottle-green V-neck sweater, and wine red bass Weejuns turns a Paisley tie scarf into a sporty-chic outfit. Similarly, the combination of gray herringbone tweed jacket, dark gray flannel trousers, white shirt and black brogues can be loosened by exchanging the magenta-green striped club tie for a tie scarf.
So a tie scarf enhances the sporty look or gives the formal look a casual touch. There are men, however, who consider this nuance superfluous nowadays. They prefer the clear choice between sporty or formal intermediate, which the tie scarf creates. If you value a formal outfit at the weekend as well, then you should stand by and wear a tie, shirt, and jacket, instead of giving in with half measures like tie scarfs. But there are also men who perceive the bare neck simply as an impermissible nakedness and inappropriate laxity. The tie scarf is highly recommended because with its help it can also be demonstrated on weekends and off duty that one likes to preserve a certain form and a certain style.
How to Tie the Tie – Knot Techniques
There are many ways to tie a tie. Here the most popular forms are presented:
The Four in Hand
The origin of the name four-in-hand (“four in the hand”) is not clear. One theory is that the coachmen put their reins on this knot to hold them together. Others assume that the members of the elite London Four-in-Hand Club made this tie knot sociable.
The Windsor Knot
Prince of Wales, King Edward VIII, and Duke of Windsor – among these three titles, one of the most important stylists of modern menswear emerges in the history books of England as well as in the style bureaus of the world. Each title represents a phase in the life of this truly perfect gentleman, born in 1894 and dying in 1972. For the sake of simplicity, we only call him the Duke of Windsor, although he introduced or popularized important fashion innovations as the Prince of Wales. In this chapter, he is mentioned above all in connection with the named after him, Windsor Knot.
However, the pertinent photos almost suggest that the Duke of Windsor did not wear this knot itself that often. His voluminous tie knots are probably due to a thick lining rather than the double knot. Suzy Menkes also mentions this in their standard work, “Windsor Style”, and adds that the Duke of Windsor had his ties made by Hawes & Curtis – almost always with a particularly thick lining. This would additionally speak against the fact that he himself wore a Windsor knot because, with thick lining, the node takes on almost unbearable proportions. Try it yourself with different thicknesses lined ties made of different materials.